Fingerboard Endurance Routines

Follow the link below for FREE access to the third instalment in the series of home training sessions written by GB Performance & Nutrition. This time we are looking at 2 effective endurance routines.

As always, depending on what facilities & equipment you have at home will depend on the allowances you will need to make to achieve the correct intensities. Access to weights & pulleys etc. will be the easiest & most adaptable. However, if you do not have any additional equipment then experimenting with different edge sizes, using a resistance band, or placing a foot on a chair for assistance will help you to find the correct intensity for this type of workout. In this case we are looking at 45% of your max. You may have already figured this out for yourself, but if not, have a look at the first post in this series & try out the strength sessions to better understand how hard you can pull.

Here are some quick examples of calculating your hanging percentage:

Example 1.
Bodyweight (BW) +/- Added Weight = Max Hang (100% MVC)
75kg + 25kg = 100kg

Req% of Max Hang – BW = Working Load
45% of 100kg = 45kg
45kg – 75kg(BW) = -30kg
In other words for this example the individual would use assistance from a 30kg weight bag & pulley to ‘remove’ weight from their body achieve 45% of their max.

Example 2.
70kg + 50kg = 120kg
45% of 120kg = 54kg
54kg – 70kg(BW) = -16kg
In this example the individual would use assistance from a 16kg weight bag & pulley to ‘remove’ weight from their body.

If you do not have access to much equipment then you should go by the feelings of fatigue and levels of pump in your forearms. It just takes a little more experimenting and imagination.
Done correctly, these sessions should leave you feeling mildly pumped & powered out in your grip. You should feel reasonably fresh at the end of this workout, although a little out of breath, & with a feeling of fullness in the forearms. If you get the balance right you should need to concentrate in order to keep correct form throughout, the pump should gradually grow towards the end & start feeling uncomfortable, without the feeling like you are going to failure.

These sessions are at the low intensity end of the spectrum, working the aerobic energy system. The goal of this type of exercise is to build metabolic efficiency in both utilising energy & recovering quickly, therefore is suitable to both roped climbers, as well as boulderers. These sessions can be completed solo, but are suitable to combine with another type of finger training on the same day. In which case it is better to complete the more intense session prior to endurance (e.g. a strength session) & even better to separate by at least 4 – 6 hours.

Complete one of these endurance routines after a thorough warm up & ensure adequate rest before completing the same session again (1 – 2 days on average).

Please keep an eye out for the next in the series of free resources I am working on that cover the spectrum of strength – endurance, as well as tendon health, nutrition, & general fitness.

I hope you enjoy trying out these 2 routines. If you do, please consider sharing with friends & spreading the word about GB Performance & Nutrition.

Thank You!